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By: Claudie Benjamin, Guest Writer
Take your armchair traveling a few steps out of your living room and you’ve got the contemporary staycation. What that term embraces is planning a day, an overnight, a week or two enjoying your own hometown while minimizing some of the costs and irritations of distance travel. Beyond that, it’s fun to explore a familiar environment in ways that are not routine. If you get out a city map of Charleston for example, there are likely numerous neighborhoods you know by name, but have you ever taken a walk, checking out every home and green space – what’s old, about to be transformed or new. In preparation, you might research a particular neighborhood via Google or the library.
So where to begin? What to consider? Perhaps finding Paris at 708 King Street on Charleston’s West Side is a way to start. Even those very familiar with the neighborhood, might do a double take spying a huge mural of the Eiffel Tower along with a classic -looking residence, setting the scene at Maison, a French bistro that opened more than four years ago. The space had served in the past as a car showroom and later a pizzeria. It was functional but basic. In effect it provided an empty canvas for the creation of a restaurant with a winning combination of outstanding “elevated food and cocktails”, a friendly, welcoming ambiance and distinctly French pizazz. “It’s a family business,” said Will Love (pictured). His business partner is his brother-in-law Chef Vandy Vanderwarker, graduate of the French Culinary Institute in New York, known in Charleston for his exceptional work as Chef de Cuisine at The Ordinary. Vandy’s two-year-old son Ward enjoys coming into the kitchen. “He yells ‘Dad,’ and everyone laughs,” said Love. –
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The menu at Maison is quintessentially French Bistro featuring items like escargot, foie gras, steak frites and the Werdnesday burger special. There’s always one from a list of proteins that includes duck, fish, chicken or steak, The wines are all French. Love said a meal he would happily order time after time would begin with a salad -“All green with an exceptional dressing.” Cherrywood smoked salmon, and then “out of this world chicken” or steak frites. Ryan, Love’s two year-old daughter, is a big enthusiast of the frites.
“Wednesday is burger night,” said Love. He described a very special duck and garlic sausage patty served on a duck fat bun. It comes along with a hanger steak patty. “It’s very labor intensive. So, we only make it on Wednesdays.”
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He’s a big fan of the burgers at Maison and once, timed by his staff, scarfed one down in seconds.
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“We want dining here to be an unpretentious, memorable experience,” said Love. He said they’ve done very little advertising, but word of mouth has been bringing in regulars.
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Every element of Maison’s décor has a story. The huge zinc bar, the patterned floor tiles. and bistro chairs – all the details you know from movies, TV and yes, actual travel.
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The photos on the wall. These striking black & white closeups of fountains and other architectural elements in Paris were shot by Vandy’s uncle. The owners have not been to Paris. The mural out back was painted by a customer, Jason Paul of Jason Paul Studios.
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“I offered to pay him,” Will said. “But, he said he’s already gotten three commissions from people who’ve seen the mural and that was enough.”
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This is the Paris bistro of their dreams. Before moving south to Charleston. Jimmy, Love’s dad, is now semi-retired. For 45 years owned and managed a number of restaurants in Stamford and Darien, Connecticut. His business experience and enthusiasm has been essential to creating this restaurant and its distinctive character.
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One unexpected discovery that links Maison to Charleston was the discovery of a very large gate welded by the internationally known craftsman Philip Simmons. How does it fit in with the French theme? Stored away for the moment It isn’t really part of the French theme, but is a reminder that when you are open to exploration in your own town, your reward may be a plate of savory duck in red wine sauce, followed by a enticing slice of vanilla sponge cake with lemon cream, blackberries, a mouthwatering creme caramel with a freshly baked madeleine, plus a fragment of history.
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https://maisoncharleston.com/