Spicebird (Credit: Makan)
Charleston has certainly established itself as a regionally and nationally known food destination with numerous excellent restaurants, many of them centered around the abundant seafood, local produce, and heirloom ingredients of the American Southeast. With this national attention and reputation comes an opportunity to expand outside of the more traditional restaurants and into more diverse offerings, and Makan, which just opened in downtown Charleston, looks to introduce well-executed Malaysian cuisine to the Lowcountry.
Makan, which opened last week on the corner of Rutledge Avenue and Cannon Street, brings new and unique flavors from its well-established Washington, D.C., location. Chef/owner James Wozniuk has received accolades from the Michelin Guide (Bib Gourmand award each year since 2021), James Beard, and Zagat. He has years of experience with the flavors of Southeast Asia, traveling and living extensively in the region before opening several successful restaurants in Washington, D.C. Makan was his first solo restaurant, and this Charleston location is his first venture outside of the nation’s capital.
We visited during the soft opening last week and were greeted by the gracious and professional staff, who guided us through the backstory of the chef and restaurant and the amalgamation of Malaysian flavors with locally sourced ingredients. The interior space features extensive use of glass that allows for a view out onto the increasingly bustling corner of this part of the Cannonborough-Elliotborough neighborhood. The interior combines the charm of the historic building with colorful scenes from Malaysia and Southeast Asia, a striking contrast that imbues the restaurant with a lively and airy feeling.
We were seated at the bar and spoke extensively with the staff about many of the items on the menu. They were able to effortlessly accommodate our dietary restrictions, as we tried most of the items on the menu. The highlights included the Char Kway Teow (Penang street noodles), a delicious and vibrant example of the classic stir-fried rice noodle dishes of the region; Bok Choy (with tofu, yellow bean gravy, and Fresno chili), a spicy and tasty vegan dish; and Curry Mee (noodle soup with coconut broth, tofu, and chicken sausage), an excellent variation of the noodle soups we were used to.
We thoroughly enjoyed the Sambal Udang Petai (shrimp and stink beans in chili sauce), which was packed with unique and unexpected flavors that paired perfectly; the Ikam Asam Pedas (spicy fish curry), a unique set of flavors that spice lovers will enjoy; and the Spicebird, the signature 15-spice roast chicken main dish from Chef Wozniuk that took chicken to heights and flavors that were entirely new to us.
A variety of small plates and sweets round out the menu, many featuring the classic flavors of the region, such as coconut, peanuts, mango, scallions, ginger, and tamarind. Most of these seemed familiar to our palates but were taken to new levels by the deft touch of Chef Wozniuk. Overall, Makan (meaning “to eat” in Malay) is a very welcome addition to this lively neighborhood on the Upper Peninsula, providing truly unique and vibrant flavors with a terrific staff in a welcoming space.
Learn more at makanchs.com.
