Millennials, if the possibility of taking over a family-owned farm is in your future—or if you just dream of farming in the Lowcountry—Greg Johnsman (pictured), an owner of Marsh Hen Mill on Edisto Island, is someone who can prepare you for the realities of the passion, risks, calamity and camaraderie that are all part of the deal.
Johnsman first learned about many of the challenges of farming from his father-in-law, now deceased, who was a tomato farmer. In his day, he was among nearly 60 commercial tomato farmers in the area; today, there are none. Johnsman’s initial interest was in birds, a subject he studied in college. Later, he was drawn to the concept of growing corn. He said recently that corn remains his passion. When he started in the milling business, his chief products were cornmeal and grits.
Over time, Johnsman said he internalized the truth behind one piece of his father-in-law’s advice: It is unwise to rely on just one or two crops at a single location due to the variables of weather, hurricanes and floods, soil depletion and insect infestations. He began working with more farmers, including those with large inland parcels away from the Charleston area, to ensure a sustainable income with multiple backups should disaster strike.
Johnsman said that while others may think of recreation, his mind and energies are almost always on business. It can be a struggle to balance work with family time. His sons are now 11 and 15, and he makes a point of regularly spending time with them.
Johnsman explained that the scope of his interest in farming is expansive and includes developing a community of 30 to 40 farming families who can share best practices, collaborate on research and development of high-quality seeds, and conduct outreach to maximize farming capability, production of quality produce and buying locally. A lesser-known part of Johnsman’s farming life involves researching which seeds produce the highest quality crops. For example, rice requires complex genetic testing to determine seed viability, whereas selecting a corn variety is still done with the naked eye.
Johnsman, 47, said he’s not sure, but he seems to be seeing growing interest among young people in foods without preservatives—a goal that aligns with the grains he grows and sells.
Johnsman works as closely with farmers as he does with chefs and restaurants to produce a consistent supply of milled products for consumption. He sets an example for elevating local farm-to-table as the co-founder, with Chef Nathan Thurston, of Miller’s All Day on King Street and James Island. The restaurant, which serves brunch specialties made largely from local ingredients, almost always has a two-hour wait.
Key to all his business efforts, Johnsman said, is the support he receives from the many people with whom he works. “I’m blessed to be surrounded by them, and I bless them.”